Marmitte dei Giganti
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Marmitte dei Giganti natural Parc is a lovely area closed to Chiavenna and it is not only appreciated for its carved rocks due to the glacial erosion, but also for other works made by human hands around XVI century when they used to dig the rocks obtaining a special stone. For these reasons it is a respectful area though here the climber has always carried on his own activity, and this continues enthusiastically by the recent years. In addiction to the known Poiatengo, Uschione and Valcondria rocks you can now climb into many others places though, in some of them, considering we are inside the Park, we decided to use no bolts. You can climb trad style or better you may choose  to top rope some of this beautyful lines. Bouldering is quite recommended too and, last but not least, we found nice places with climbing routes suitable for children or beginners. Whatever you are looking for, it is a good reason to enjoy the beauty of Marmitte Natural Park.

1 - La ciclabile
2 - Paretina dell'amico Fritz
3 - Poiatengo
4 - Il Giardinetto
5 - Placca del Prato Grande
6 - Sasso Dragone


7 - Il Canyon
8 - Sass'Ombroso

9 - Rock Stadium
10 - Uschione
11- Valcondria/Tanno

     1 - PLACCA DEL PRATO GRANDE
     100 m  5c+          


8

1x50m

super
After two easier pitches closed to some vegetation, the routes finished with a wonderful slab.
From the cairn to the top, good viewpoint, you return by an easy path.



Approach:
you may walk from the campsite or better by bike along the cycling way (1 km) to Chiavenna direction.
Alternatively you park the car near Prosto cimitery. Just after the crossing  of the wooden bridge on Mera river, you take a small path that leads briefly to the base of the wall (1 min. from the cycling way).
La Ciclabile

Interesting Crag, good for summer time. Offers different style of climbing and difficulties, from easy slab to vertical walls. Rock is solid though can be wet sometime.

Approach: very simple from the campsite along the bike way (see Amico Fritz Above). From the bridge go on till to the evident tunnel.
  


14

1x70m

super
 (clicca per ingrandire)
 
1  Nulla è scontato    6b
2  Tortura cinese       6b+
3  Tommy Bryant      5a
4  Asolan                  5a
5  Peter                    5a
6  Vialetto              5a    
7  Camy Kite          6b
8  Paul steel            5c
9  Frullatore            7c
10 Moscardino       5c  
  11 Demoralizzatore   6b
12 Non ingannare..    6b+
13   Margherita      6c+
14   Orsina             7a+
15   Maddalena      7a
16   Anna               6a             
17   Situ. eoliche      6c
18   Malleus M.      6b
19   Polena             6b+
20   Violante           6b+
21   Francesca        6b+
22   Maria Pedralta 6c+
23   Angiolina          6c  
24   Caterina           5b /6a+
25   Zuanina            5b
26   Pomat              5a
27   Marcon            7b 

versione stampabile PDF

Rock Stadium -------------------
Big and overhanging wall with black and white stripes, quite close to Chiavenna town itself. At its base exists several short climbs, though, up to now, no routes climbed till to the top of the main sector.

The new route "Alba Chiara" has been opened from the bottom, using aid climbing in many sections, but it is now possible all free.
Take care of the rock that it is not always excellent! Will improve if repeated a few times probably.

Pay attention on rappelling too! Four times 30 m. Very airy. Pass the quickdrows on the 3rd pitch.
Approach:

When in Chiavenna (via Picchi) park yor car at the cimitery and walk beside its  border leading and passing behind to the Sport center (Swimming pool, Ice Skating). Here you find a path that elevates with some hairpins and, shortly above, moves directly to the base of the wall (10 min. - take care not to enter private properties).
Uschione

Though you have to walk at least 40 min. to get there, climbing is beautiful and place fine. The wall is as flat as a blackboard and the routes are looking similar one to the next, but climbing is tricky and demanding getting each route different. Fortunately the state of the equipment has been recently revised setting new belay and first bolts have been added considering the base scattered of boulders also.

Approach: from Chiavenna Cemetery parking, around its wall entering Marmitte dei Giganti Park. After 10min. (Prato Grande) turn to right hand side and up to Belmonte (Roccolo) encountering a flat path. Go on directly (cairns) following a good track and then leave it  at the base of a slab to go to the right  and up through boulders (cairns) till to the base of the wall .

On the pictures: W la mamma 6b and view on the entire wall with a climber on Che casino 6c+ (below)