VILLA DI CHIAVENNA (english version)
by Guido Lisignoli / guida alpina

Camping Acquafraggia
I-23020 Piuro (SO)
Tel/Fax +39 0343 36755
info@campingacquafraggia.net

 

 


PLACCHE DI VILLA
1) 32 dicembre
2) nuova via col vento
3) Placche dei coscritti
4) Scudo di Sciucco



first moves on supercrack

32 DICEMBRE
1st.climb: G. Lisignoli, F. Giacomelli 1986
The route has been re-equipped on 2006

Very nice climb with hard moves on the headwall. The last pitch follows a wonderful crack. A full set of friends is necessary (n4 included).

Access: begin in Villa at Posmotta Restaurant from where you see the slabs very well. Follow at first the road and then the nice path to Calestro till about the level of the base of the rocks. There (cairn) you take a small line trough the wood that leads to the the routes (40 min. from Posmotta).
 


south
 
180 m

Yes/
full set
n4 incl.

no

50m.

10

2x50

good
 

 

 

1) TRAD UNION
G.Lisignoli, A.Mariani, aprile 2013

Interesting trad route that follows a crack sistem on the left hand edge of the large slab. It shares some short piece with  routes prieviously climbed on the wall. Friends compulsory (6b obl.)



2) NUOVA VIA COL VENTO        
G. Lisignoli, F. Giacomelli , 1986
G. Lisignoli, G. Mazza 1997 (last pitch)

This is a famous friction route, beautiful and hard. (6c obl.)

 
south
 
150 m

1- 0.1/3
2-few

few

50m.

10

2x50

good

PLACCHE DEI COSCRITTI
1st. climb: S. Panzeri, F. Orlandini 1981
final part: G. e M. Lisignoli , C. Zani 1988
Re- equipped during february 2007

It is another nice route, a bit easyer than the previous ones. Follows a line up to the middle of a very wide slab, while the first pitches climb the steepest step at the base.





 

 

 

 

 


 


sud
 
170 m

no

no

50m.

8

2x50

ok


 

SCUDO DI SCIUCCO
1st. climb: M. e G. Lisignoli 28/12/1989
partially re-equipped on 2004/2005

It is a hidden wall. Untill you do not see it, you did not guess you can climb in that place!
I like the route very much, along many different cracks to self protect with friends. I even like that long hike to reach the base of the wall!

Access: start from Dogana by the border and follow the path to Somasaccia and go on passing beautiful different alpine pasture untill you reach two typicall pine trees at 1500m sl. At this point you leave the main path going to Malinone  and follow a line crossing the slope. You pass a river and go on orizontally till the old farm houses of Sotparet. From there walk shortly on solid stones till the base of the wall (2 h. from Dogana).

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south
 
175 m

Yes
/full set
 

event.

50m.

10

2x50

good