VILLA DI CHIAVENNA
by Guido Lisignoli / guida alpina

Camping Acquafraggia
I-23020 Piuro (SO)
Tel/Fax +39 0343 36755
info@campingacquafraggia.net

 

 


PLACCHE DI VILLA
1) 32 dicembre
2) nuova via col vento
3) Placche dei coscritti
4) Scudo di Sciucco



first moves on supercrack

32 DICEMBRE
1st.climb: G. Lisignoli, F. Giacomelli 1986
The route has been re-equipped on 2006

This climb is beautiful and needs power on the “headwall”. The last crack is wonderful and you have to protect it with friends.



Access:.you start from the restaurant Postmotta where the slabs are well visible. You follow the track and the beautiful path towards Calestro up to the level of the slabs base. Here (cairn) you enter a small track on the right which takes you to the start of the Villa slabs. (40min)


 


south
 
180 m

Yes/
full set
n°4 incl.

no

50m.

10

2x50

good
 

 

 

1) TRAD UNION
G.Lisignoli, A.Mariani, aprile 2013

Interesting trad route that follows a crack sistem on the left hand edge of the large slab. It shares some short piece with  routes prieviously climbed on the wall. Friends compulsory (6b obl.)

 



2) NUOVA VIA COL VENTO        
G. Lisignoli, F. Giacomelli , 1986
G. Lisignoli, G. Mazza 1997 (last pitch)

This is a famous friction route, beautiful and hard. (6c obl.)

 

 
south
 
150 m

1- 0.1/3
2-few

few

50m.

10

2x50

good

PLACCHE DEI COSCRITTI
1st. climb: S. Panzeri, F. Orlandini 1981
final part: G. e M. Lisignoli , C. Zani 1988
Re- equipped in February 2007

It is a beautiful route, a bit easier than the previous ones. It climbs in the centre of a large slab. The first part climbs a steep wall.

 





 

 

 

 

 


 


sud
 
170 m

no

no

50m.

8

2x50

ok


 

SCUDO DI SCIUCCO
1st. climb: M. e G. Lisignoli 28/12/1989
partially re-equipped in 2004/2005

It is a hidden wall. Until you do not see it, you would not say you can climb in that place! I like the route very much, there are a lot of cracks to protect, but I especially like the place and the long hike to reach the start.


I
Access:

You start from Dogana (near the border), you follow the path towards Somasaccia and go on reaching other Alpine pastures as far as the path passes through two peculiar fir trees at an altitude of about 1500 m. Here you leave the main path towards Malinone and continue following small tracks. You cross a beautiful torrent and go on up to the huts of “Sotparet”. Going up a heap of stones you reach the base of the wall (2 hours from Dogana).

 

<<back to climbing index<<

<<back to home page<<


south
 
175 m

Yes
/full set
 

event.

50m.

10

2x50

good